The newly restored 1890s classroom on the second floor of the Brick Academy at 15 West Oak St. was the perfect venue for a presentation on authentic 18th century dress last evening. With a huge potbellied stove, a portrait of Abe Lincoln and bench style seating, guests were transported back in time for a discourse debunking commonly held views on historic garb.

The Historical Society of Somerset Hills hosted "What not to Wear in the 18th Century." The evening coordinated well with many events this year commemorating the 250th Anniversary of the signing of the Charter.  

Kimberly Costa, the guest speaker for the evening, is an expert on 18th century dress and customs having earned degrees in liberal arts, history, and theatre.  She practices "living history" where individuals dress in period garb and engage in activities representative of that time. Living history is evident at museums or restored historic areas such as Colonial Williamsburg where the participants are costumed and perform work typical of that time with authentic methods and tools.

Costa began the evening by reading a list of commonly held beliefs about clothing in the 18th century. For example, "Red was only worn by the Brits" or "All women had 18-inch waists that were cinched in so tight they could barely breathe." Her presentation covered everything from undergarments and waistcoats to gowns and mop caps. The slideshow included photos of actual preserved garments from museums and drawings/paintings of the times.

As with any era, clothing was designed for comfort, function and yes, vanity. Natural fabrics such as wool, linen, silk and cotton were used, and often imported.  The "homespun" we have heard about meant cloth produced in the colonies, not necessarily in one's home.  

A major function of clothing was to provide body warmth. Women wore layers of shifts, corsets, petticoats, jumps, bed jackets, robes and gowns. "Pockets" were not little pieces of fabric sewn into a seam, but rather a purse-like object worn on a drawstring over the hip, but under the gown. Much like today's pocket book it held personal items for daily use. Unlike today's pocket book, it was kept out of sight.

Men, on the other hand, carried the pocket books; folded in half, one side of the pocket book carried their money, the other carried a small book for taking notes. Contrary to popular belief, men did not wear lots of ruffles around their necks. Ruffles were limited to the cuffs and cravats were worn at the neck.

Costa's enthusiasm and passion for the subject were engaging. The audience enjoyed her many anecdotes which made the history so much more relatable. Mayor Scott Spitzer stopped in for a quick hello and refreshments were served.

For further information on Costa and 18th Century clothing, you can visit her Web site at www.18thcenturywoman.com. The next scheduled event for the Brick Academy Speaker Series will be a musical program, April 15:  Music of America's History—Songs from the Pre-Revolutionary Era, by Nancy Schill and Charlie Pellegrino.